Month: November 2012
In my previous blog I shared my process for making large prints with the LX5. I didn’t however explain about two of the other pieces of software that I also experimented with. The first of these that I want to tell you about is Photo Ninja which is a RAW converter. If the name reminds you of Noise Ninja, that’s because it’s by the same people.
Anyway, the reason I wanted to try out the converter is because many people are raving about the detail and quality of the images created. And to be honest, I have to agree. There was a huge amount of detail rendered and I didn’t have to work that hard to make the image sharp and of a high quality. Here you can see a small screen sample of an LX5 image shown at 100%.
No this hasn’t been sharpened other than a little RAW sharpening applied in the converter as I would in Lightroom.
I think the slider that really did the magic for me was something called “Detail”. When I used this the details just seemed to pop out but in a very natural way. It also did nothing to damage the colours which also rendered very well.
There were two interesting points to this experiment however:
- I didn’t have to spend much time learning in order to produce excellent images and with a little practice I expect I could do better.
- After I resized the image and did the same in Lightroom, I applied the Topaz Detail filter to both images. I expected the image from Noise Ninja to be better but it wasn’t. Both images were pretty much on a par. This suggests to me that Lightroom is also doing an excellent job of extracting details but you just don’t get to see it until you use an enhancement tool like Topaz Detail.
Will I switch to Noise Ninja? Probably not. I found the process of waiting for it to render images after each adjustment a little too time consuming. This is supposed to be lightweight image editing after all.
If you are interested in the link to Photo Ninja, here it is…
It’s not often that I have free time these days but this weekend was different. My wife had gone to a knitting exhibition over in Harrogate with her sister and I found myself with a free afternoon. On the rare occasions when this happens and I don’t have any photography organised I like to experiment with photography software and image processing. This weekend was no exception and I decided I wanted to produce some large LX5 prints.
My target was to produce a 30” inch print which would stand close scrutiny. Whilst a print of this size needs to have some distance between the image and the viewer to be appreciated, I also want to feel happy that if someone (probably me) sticks their nose up to the print, that it would still appear detailed and sharp. The image I went to work on was this picture of Brooklyn Bridge (shown below) that I shot last March on my LX5 whilst visiting New York.
When we prepare an image we usually think about our vision and how we can create this using either the camera or image manipulations such as dodging and burning. But if you are intending to print large you also need to evaluate the image to find and correct weaknesses that will become apparent in a larger print. The main areas of concern are noise, sharpness and detail.
The detail element of the image really needs to be addressed first during image capture. The best way to do this is to use good lenses, shoot in RAW and then expose to the right on the histogram (overexpose the image slightly). This moves a lot of areas out of the shadows and helps open them up to increase detail. Also the way image sensors work, a lot more information is captured in the darker areas with a lot less noise present. The result is a more detailed image which is sharper in the darker areas. The over exposure is then corrected when the RAW file is converted. As I always shoot in this way I had a good starting RAW file.
My next step was to assess the image for weaknesses. Here I could see some limited Luminance noise, especially in the clear blue sky. I decided that I needed to do a good job of selective noise reduction to focus on the shadows and on the sky. I did this using the Nik Define filter but I was careful to make my conversion from RAW with no sharpening and only colour noise reduction first. By not sharpening at all I ensured the noise was not emphasised before I applied the noise reduction. I also like to ensure the Nik Define filter is the first luminance noise reduction applied to the image as I have found this works best.
The steps above gave me a nice clean starting position to make my adjustments and convert to Black and White. After the Black and White conversion I used a programme called Topaz Detail which is very good at revealing details hidden in the image. Only once I was happy with this did I resize my image and then apply selective sharpening to the finished image. This gave me a nicely detailed and sharp image that was also very clean in terms of noise. Whilst I don’t yet have the print I can judge how it will look by viewing my image at 50% magnification.I have taken a screen grab of part of the 30inch x 20 inch image zoomed to 50% so you can judge this for yourself.
I also produced a second resized image at 18” on the longest side in order to print on A3+ paper. The resulting print is very detailed, with nice tones and is exceedingly sharp.
I hope information helps you if you are seeking to make larger prints from an LX5 or similar quality compact.
This is just a short post to share that my Viveza book (covering Viveza 2) is now live in the Kindle store on Amazon. It’s priced at USD2.99 which comes out at about GBP1.94 depending on the exchange rate. The book covers all aspects of using the Viveza 2 software and is backed up by image files that can be downloaded from the members’ area of my Lenscraft website.
If you have never tried Viveza I can promise that it will speed up your image editing hugely and that it’s well worth trying the 15 day free trial from the Nik website. My book would of course help you get more out of the evaluation – but then I’m biased.
After the very relevant question from Paul I thought it best to add this link to the Free Kindle Reader download on Amazon as it’s not easy to find.
More Lightweight Photographer posts next week.
I haven’t been posting too much over the past couple of weeks. To be totally honest my time has been going into the new Nik Viveza book I have been writing for the Kindle. I have however been asked a question and I feel compelled to answer even though time is short at the moment. The question is “what’s so special about the LX5, after all it’s only a compact camera”.
I thought I would respond by listing my key likes here (this is only a limited list):
- The exceptionally sharp lens – the lens is fantastic and can resolve a great deal of detail in the images captured. If you are shooting in JPG, a lot of the detail can be lost as the noise reduction tends to be a little too aggressive and the sharpening not quite sufficient. Images captured in RAW format are however a completely different proposition and you can pull so much detail and sharpness from the files.
- The fast aperture – this allows you to shoot in low light conditions that would make you pack up your DSLR. You can handhold indoors with acceptable shutter speeds even at relatively low ISO. The LX5 can’t compete with larger sensor cameras in terms of noise but the fast aperture means you can usually keep the ISO low. Even wide open at f/2.0 the lens produces excellent results.
- RAW Capture – Capturing your images in RAW is essential if you want to create a high quality image. The LX5 only has a 10Mpixel count but when used correctly you can produce a superb A3+ print. By shooting in RAW you can apply the correct level of noise reduction, sharpening and enjoy a much higher dynamic range than with JPG files.
- Great Depth of Field – whilst the small sensor in comparison with a DSLR (the sensor is actually larger than with many other compacts) and therefore has higher levels of noise, this also gives the camera a greater depth of field at wide apertures. You might be able to shoot at f/2.0 with your DSLR but can you get everything in sharp focus? With a correctly composed scene you may well be able to with the LX5.
- Design – The design of this camera is to my mind perfect. It fits in my hand and my pocket. It’s easy to use and the menus are intuitive. Most of the features I need to access in a hurry are buttons on the camera.
- Great Macro – I can switch the lens to Macro mode and get great close-ups. If I want to do that with an SLR I need additional equipment.
Whilst the LX5 might be a little long in the tooth now, its replacement the LX7 is very similar and has many of the same features. It does address some of the LX5’s weaknesses but it would take a considerable improvement for me to feel the need to make the switch. If you are considering getting a quality compact then I can recommend the LX5 whole heartedly and you can pick them up at bargain prices currently.
If you have been following my Lightweight Photography blog you might remember a post I made discussing the Achilles Heal of the GX1. At the time I had been out with my 5D and GX1 shooting waterfalls. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to achieve a slow enough speed with the GX1 to create the images I wanted so I ended up shooting most of my work on the 5D that day.
Since this trip I have purchased a Neutral Density filter from Hoya. The filter is of the screw in type as this limits the chance of light leaking in around a filter holder. It’s also quite convenient as my 3 main lenses (9-18mm, 14-45 and 45-200) are all 52mm diameter so I can attach the filter to any of these.
If you look back to the original post you will see there were a few questions asking about the strength of the filter I am using. I thought therefore I would give some additional information in this post.
The first thing I would like to say is that the filter strength is not the important factor here but the shutter speed is. When I shoot waterfalls I usually like to see the blurring of water to emphasise the movement but I still like some detail in the water. Generally speaking I don’t want to turn the water into a mist so keep my shutter speeds in the region of 0.5 to 3 seconds (as a general rule of thumb). The exact speed is based on factors such as my distance from the falls and the volume of water flowing over the fall. Whilst I can often judge this from experience it’s often a good idea to take a few test shots and adjust the speed if necessary.
The strength of the filter I have chosen is 4 stop (16x). In shaded conditions such as where you tend to find waterfalls, this puts me in the right ball park when shooting at between f/7.1 and f/14. I usually shoot at f/5.6 to f/8 as this is where my lenses are at their best so perhaps I could have opted for a 5 stop filter. I can however attach a square filter holder to the end of my lens and insert one of my ND Graduated filters pulled down so that the dark area of the filter covers the entire image area. This can give me an additional 1, 2 or 3 stops of light reduction which is better than having too strong a filter to start with.
I hope this helps a few of you wanting to achieve longer shutter speeds.
Since discussing my experiences with the X-Rite Color Passport and using this to generate Camera RAW profiles, I have received a number of requests to share my profiles. Being a good natured sort of chap I have decided to load these onto my Lenscraft website where anyone wanting to can download them for free. The only limitation is that you will need to sign up for free membership of my site to access the download page. Membership also gives you access to free materials as well as the profiles so I’m sure you will agree this is a pretty good deal.
The profiles once installed correctly should appear in the Adobe RAW converters in Photoshop and Lightroom when you load a RAW file for one of these cameras. I find them an improvement on the profiles shipped by Adobe but then they were generated for my cameras so this might not be the case for you.
Anyway, give them a try, they may work for you.
A few blogs back I discussed my desire to have a digital Infrared camera and weighed up some of the options I was considering as a light weight photographer. The usual approach of photographers converting cameras to IR seems to be to take an old DSLR that they would otherwise sell and have this converted. However the cost of this conversion (certainly in the UK) makes me think this isn’t cost effective and anyway, I don’t like carrying a DSLR around never mind a second body for my system.
In the end I decided to purchase a second GX1 body for the conversion. This was not an easy decision and for a while I toyed with the idea of purchasing a GF1 to convert. What put me off was the cost of the conversion was £250 + VAT (ouch) and I would still have an old 12Mpixel camera. Weighing up the cost of the conversion and the cost of a new camera I thought the GX1 made much more sense.
My initial search for a GX1 was looking for a new model at a good price. This would have cost me around £300 after the cash back offer Panasonic was running (that’s a fantastic price for such a great little camera). I also looked on eBay but most of the imported models were about the same cost. I did find a second hand model for sale but the owner had stuck faux leather on the body and I wondered what that might be hiding.
In the end I found a reconditioned model which had a 12 month warranty and had been reconditioned by Panasonic. The price was just £250 and when it arrived it was like a completely new camera. In fact I can’t believe it has ever been used and all the accessories such as the strap were brand new. Best of all the body is silver and my existing GX1 is black. This will allow me to distinguish the IR camera from the standard one.
Now here is where the fun begins because I decided to send my current GX1 for the conversion given that it was about 8 months old but the new camera now had a 12 month warranty. What happened next has taken me a bit by surprise. When I have been using the new camera I could swear the sensor has a much better dynamic range. Quite often I could shoot without an ND Graduated filter where it would have been needed with my older GX1. The images also appear cleaner and the colour more balanced. I did check the firmware but it was v1.0 as was my old camera.
This experience has lead me to conclude there could be a few possible causes for what I am seeing:
- I’m seeing things that aren’t there – but I don’t think so
- My first camera could be a poor model or my new one could be a fluke product that is better than the average. I recall Ctein writing on The Online Photographer site about his old printer being much better than a new model and after much testing and input from Epson concluding his old model was so good because of exceptional luck.
- Could Panasonic be improving the GX1 bit by bit by including new sensor developments as they become available? This is not as odd as it sounds because they are developing new sensor improvements for newer models all the time. Why go to the cost of manufacturing different sensors of different quality if they are all the same size and probably all cost similar amounts to make.
Anyway, I have rambled on for a while here without telling you where I sent the camera for the conversion. In the end it was ACS in Norfolk because I wanted to keep the camera in the UK. I did consider sending it to one of the leading converters in the US but in the end I wanted to support a UK company and after all costs were factored in there wasn’t too much difference. Once I get the camera back and have a chance to use it I will post some thoughts about the conversion.